1995 Toyota 4Runner 7MGTE Swap!

[GOT_BOOST]

So I pulled the trigger and am swapping the 7MGTE into my 4runner.

My current 4runner set up.

22RE, 4 cyl, 5 speed 4X4. 115 hp

New set up:
7MGTE, 6 cyl turbo, 4X4, min 232 hp. My goal is 300 rwhp.

On Sat I am picking up a 7mge OEM flywheel, W58 bellhousing, and a spec stage 3 W58 6 puck clutch (rated for 359 hp).

I will up date with pics of the build as I go along.

Time frame for completion: Dec 31 2011 or earlier.

Why i'm doing this... I want more hp out of my 4runner and there are not many guys in Edmonton with a 7MGTE set up. :D

[GOT_BOOST]

Pics of the Lego car. :D

I did not purchase it for the looks... just the upgrades, and all the components I need to make it work.

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[GOT_BOOST]

So parts on the car are selling much faster than expected. Part of me wants to see how long I can keep stripping the car on my street before bylaw comes and gives me a ticket!:thumbup: This has bumped my swap project a head by a few months.

Deciding to not pursue that risk of a street strip, I moved the car into the garage tonight. I've started to remove some body panels, interior pieces and prepare the engine for removal sometime this week.

[GOT_BOOST]

Now for the pics.

Hood and headlight covers removed. A few upgrades exposed

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs765.ash1/165663_492231667190_528762190_6678938_1376701_n.jp g


I'm contemplating installing the MOMO steering wheel in my 4runner. If I keep it, I would need to rewire the cruise. Remember.. I want it to look close to OEM as possible, but tastefully modded yet functional.

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A closer shot of a few mods. I'm contemplating dumping the manual boost controller and going with the electronic set up. Maybe another AVC-R or something new on the market.

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GOT BOOST? :facepalm:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs073.snc6/168309_492231937190_528762190_6678945_3675956_n.jp g

[Dan_Gyoba]

Is that running MAP? What's it using for translation?

[GOT_BOOST]

Is that running MAP? What's it using for translation?

No, just the stock Supra AFM.

[Dan_Gyoba]

Yeah, saw that on second glance. It was just the BOV->atmosphere that had me going for a second there.

[GOT_BOOST]

Tonight was successful on the stripping the exterior and interior. Thanks to Marc, Steve and Matt for coming by and turning a few wrenches.

The front bumper, nose piece, signal lights, door glass, coil overs and many misc parts have been removed. Sunday we are going at it again to get the rest of the interior pulled and the engine ready for removal.

Time for some pics!

Mmm... Inter cooler and guts exposed

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no more coil overs nor suspension.

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The dash, seats, carpet and the rest of the electronics are coming out.

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[GOT_BOOST]

Thanks to Clem, Steve, Marc and Carl for pulling a few wrenches and screwdrivers this weekend.

The interior and exterior are pretty much stripped to the point I want, unless someone wants the AC system.

Next on the chopping block is the LSD (yes, I will be swapping that into my 4runner...I need to replace a few items first), rear brakes and rotors, exhaust system, drive shaft, then the engine and transmission will be last.

Time for some shots of the car now.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs069.snc6/167918_494033612190_528762190_6704135_2858842_n.jp g

A few parts ready for the swap, the rest are interior parts that are being sold.

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Mmm... pretty much gutted!

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I needed a temp spot to hold the bumper,cover and foam, rebar and the spare tire..

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I'll upload some pics of the engine pull of the supra and the 4runner engine pull and install when it comes along.

In the mean time enjoy the car bring stripped. :beer:

[GOT_BOOST]

Feb 01 2011 Update.

Tonight I removed the exhaust system and drive shaft. In addition to that I started the engine removal process. Some time this week I will pull out the Limited Slip and store it for my rear diff swap. (I might do a different thread on that, or include it in my turbo swap)

Anyways some pics.

Wire harness through the fire wall, engine in the process for removal.

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The Magnaflow exhaust on there now. The sound of the exhaust is decent so I will keep it for now. I just need to fab, route and weld new pieces to make it fit the 4runner. I like that it already has the 3 inch piping.

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs245.snc6/179360_494613587190_528762190_6711746_49551_n.jpg

Over enlarged exhaust? :lol:

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The rest of the system including the drive shaft

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The weakest link in the exhaust system. The OEM Turbo Elbow. I will be replacing this with the LIPP high flow turbo elbow.

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[GOT_BOOST]

Feb 03 2011 update....

Removed the Intercooler and hard pipes. Did a very very very rough test fit for location and routing of the pipes. Took a picture for awesomeness factor.

Removed the Radiator, clutch fan, fan shroud, intake, and some misc items for the engine pull.

I'm much closer to the engine pull now.

Now some pics for your enjoyment.


A rough test fit! Ok... so its sitting on the brush guard... I wanted a pic! :thumbup:

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Side shot

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mmm... salvage yard car!

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Side shot of motor

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Thumbs up for awesomeness!

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[Bri-Guy]

Looks good. I'm assuming you'll be able to pull this thing in one piece without having to directly touch the turbo, right???;)

[GOT_BOOST]

Looks good. I'm assuming you'll be able to pull this thing in one piece without having to directly touch the turbo, right???;)

Correct! I have a dedicated team of specalists that touch the turbo side. If I look at or breathe on the CT26 it is instantly destroyed! Lol

[GOT_BOOST]

Update Feb 07 2011:

Thanks to Steve and Marc for coming by and turning a few wrenches.

The engine and transmission are out of the donor car. Only thing left to remove is the MKIII LSD and rear hubs and the car is ready for the scrap yard.

Transmission has been separated from the engine. Now waiting to remove the automatic flywheel and start the prep to the 5 speed conversion.

Time for a few pics..

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Donor car almost finished. :thumbup:

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Removing the engine from the automatic transmission.

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Engine all alone ready to start swapping over the 5 speed components. :beer:

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[GOT_BOOST]

This is pretty much the last of the donor car...

I pulled the LSD, rear axles, fuel tank and fuel pump tonight.

Tomorrow will be pulling misc wire harnesses needed (not photo worthy), and having the car ready to be hauled to the scrap yard on Friday.

The next set of pics will be of the removal of the 22RE.

Time for a few pics.

7MGTE fuel pump, I will be upgrading to the walbro 255LPH , but will have this as a spare just incase... :D

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180189_497915972190_528762190_6755691_2259273_n.jp g


The LSD I am not 100% sure I am swapping into the 4runner or not...

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No fuel tank, axles, LSD

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[GOT_BOOST]

Feb 13 2011 Update.

The 88 Supra was sent to the scrap yard on Friday completely stripped.

I have swapped over the momo steering wheel and have started to prep the 4runner for engine removal.

I still need to acquire a few key components before this swap is successful.

Time for the pics

Test fitting some gauges

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/182887_500068202190_528762190_6785038_753700_n.jpg


Old beat up Toyota Steering wheel

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In the process of swapping over the new one. The little clip sticking out of the center is for the horn, and cruise. I need to reroute the wires.
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Finished product

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/181647_500068477190_528762190_6785047_3962580_n.jp g

Feb 15 2011 update:

Thanks to Matt for coming out and pulling a few wrenches on the truck.

I started to prep the 22RE for removal.

The ECU, rad, fan shroud, air cleaner, air box have been removed.
I pulled the engine wire harness has been pulled through the engine. The ignitor, and harnesses have been seperated from the body.

Next up is draining the oil, gear oil, and unbolting the drive shaft, engine mounts and preparing for the pull. That will be on Thursday night.

Time for some pics.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=6800366&id=528762190

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[GOT_BOOST]

Update: Feb 28 2011

Not really got accomplished since the last update. I picked up 2 X 1/2 to 3/8 reducers.

I went to Banff this past weekend to snowboard, deliver and pick up a few parts.

I now have:

7MGTE 5speed ECU
5M Motor Mounts (block side)
Apexi AVCR Electronic Boost Controller
Apexi AFC-neo (Air Fuel Controller)

All I need now is the W58 clutch fort, throw out bearing, pivot ball, and slave cylinder.

This week I will turn a few more wrenches and finish the engine removal. I hope to have the engine out by Sunday.

[Keros]

Are you actually going to mount that "brush guard" on the truck when you're done?

Project is coming along nice, good on ya!

[GOT_BOOST]

Are you actually going to mount that "brush guard" on the truck when you're done?

Project is coming along nice, good on ya!


Yessir!

Otherwise I would not have picked it up! :D

[Keros]

They call those brush guards "damage multipliers" in the offroading community, because a good bump on any part of the guard will push it into the hood and headlights, making an otherwise small collision into a few grand worth of repairs. Because it attaches at the bottom (under the bumper, if I recall), it's essentially a bigassed lever... a small force applied to the height of the bumper is multiplied the distance from the bumper line to the mounts of the guard at the bottom... and smush, it goes into your nice headlights and straight fenders.

You're better off with just a bare bumper, because either way, if you hit something like a deer, it's going to compact your hood and lights anyway; you may as well avoid getting the guard ploughed into your bodywork by some dipshit backing into you, an accident that would, at best, trade some paint onto your stock bumper.

Unless it bolts to the frame with some bigass tubing supporting it, it's not going to resist flexing into the bodywork under impact. According to what I've read, they're fancy and expensive ornaments for adding collateral damage to your own vehicle.

[Smashey]

Keros your right but don't quite give the bush guards enough credit they will still push down some smaller trees and bushes.

Still the only really good ones are the ones that completely replace the front bumpers but there really expensive and heavy too not to mention mounting a huge winch behind that heavy new bumper.

This is a good example of what i mean.

http://img.off-road.com/aimages/articlestandard/trucks4x4/362009/623023/shrockworks.jpg

[GOT_BOOST]

They call those brush guards "damage multipliers" in the offroading community, because a good bump on any part of the guard will push it into the hood and headlights, making an otherwise small collision into a few grand worth of repairs. Because it attaches at the bottom (under the bumper, if I recall), it's essentially a bigassed lever... a small force applied to the height of the bumper is multiplied the distance from the bumper line to the mounts of the guard at the bottom... and smush, it goes into your nice headlights and straight fenders.

You're better off with just a bare bumper, because either way, if you hit something like a deer, it's going to compact your hood and lights anyway; you may as well avoid getting the guard ploughed into your bodywork by some dipshit backing into you, an accident that would, at best, trade some paint onto your stock bumper.

Unless it bolts to the frame with some bigass tubing supporting it, it's not going to resist flexing into the bodywork under impact. According to what I've read, they're fancy and expensive ornaments for adding collateral damage to your own vehicle.

It bolts to the frame of the truck and is very rigid. It was on a newer Lexus LX470.

I could care less about the "damage multiplier" as parts are cheap and I know a very good bodyman in the extremely rare event I do end up in a front end collision that is my fault. Asides, the truck is going wheeling so I fully expect to get a few dents and scratches.

[Keros]

haha, ok. If you got it for dirt cheap, it is in some ways an improvement over nothing.

I've seen lots of threads around TTORA and ih8mud about guys coming to the forums saying "wife hit barrier, compacted lights, damage estimate?" because they pushed the grill guard into the body work.

Whereas for the bumpers Smashey linked, they often say "t-boned a honda, wrote off honda, should I repaint my whole bumper or just retouch the scrape?"

I recall a dude that wrote off his truck when he smoked a barrier on the driver's side at 70MPH on the highway. The bumper took the brunt of the hit and pushed the whole front end back a ways, bent the frame and tons of other damage. He was ok... and sold the bumper for $350, all it needed was a new driver's side mount, as it was bent in the impact. That's nuts.

I've seen ARB's for sale used for less than $500 for your generation of truck... 100% pimp. Of course, a steel bumper of the sort an ARB is will weigh in about 100-120lbs, which is quite a bit to leverage over your front wheels. I do know people who run stock suspension on 2nd and 3rd gen runners with an ARB... but they do often admit it does make the handling a bit weird. Heavy duty suspension is 'recommended'. Which is why I haven't gotten one... it doubles the price of the bumper to have to do the suspension as well.

Anyway, it's something you should know and keep in mind, that it can happen.

[GOT_BOOST]

haha, ok. If you got it for dirt cheap, it is in some ways an improvement over nothing.

I've seen lots of threads around TTORA and ih8mud about guys coming to the forums saying "wife hit barrier, compacted lights, damage estimate?" because they pushed the grill guard into the body work.

Whereas for the bumpers Smashey linked, they often say "t-boned a honda, wrote off honda, should I repaint my whole bumper or just retouch the scrape?"

I recall a dude that wrote off his truck when he smoked a barrier on the driver's side at 70MPH on the highway. The bumper took the brunt of the hit and pushed the whole front end back a ways, bent the frame and tons of other damage. He was ok... and sold the bumper for $350, all it needed was a new driver's side mount, as it was bent in the impact. That's nuts.

I've seen ARB's for sale used for less than $500 for your generation of truck... 100% pimp. Of course, a steel bumper of the sort an ARB is will weigh in about 100-120lbs, which is quite a bit to leverage over your front wheels. I do know people who run stock suspension on 2nd and 3rd gen runners with an ARB... but they do often admit it does make the handling a bit weird. Heavy duty suspension is 'recommended'. Which is why I haven't gotten one... it doubles the price of the bumper to have to do the suspension as well.

Anyway, it's something you should know and keep in mind, that it can happen.


Yeah, I got it for pretty much nothing. :D

A 70 mph impact is pretty much going to destroy most vehicles on the road. LOL Have you seen collision damage from vehicles at 60 mph plus? There is usually not alot left of a vehicle.

I considered the ARB, but I need the room for the front mount intercooler. I am not sure if the ARB will provide the clearence needed, and the proper flow for the intercooler.

[Funkycheeze]

Have you considered the probability of damaging the FMIC or piping when wheeling? I discounted doing the 7M swap on my truck (and am now considering the 5VZ instead) for this exact reason. The 7M is ornery enough without getting mud all up in its shit, and a holed IC would really mess up the works.

[GOT_BOOST]

Have you considered the probability of damaging the FMIC or piping when wheeling? I discounted doing the 7M swap on my truck (and am now considering the 5VZ instead) for this exact reason. The 7M is ornery enough without getting mud all up in its shit, and a holed IC would really mess up the works.

I did consider it....

That is why it will be very light wheeling. The trucks main purpose will be used to haul trailers, boats, light off road and going to the mountains, etc.

I should have clarified, sorry man.

[Smashey]

So what's the progress on this beast?

[GOT_BOOST]

So what's the progress on this beast?

No new updates man. I've been pretty busy. This weekend I plan to pull a few wrenches on her and get more prepped for the removal! :D

[Keros]

Have you considered the probability of damaging the FMIC or piping when wheeling? I discounted doing the 7M swap on my truck (and am now considering the 5VZ instead) for this exact reason. The 7M is ornery enough without getting mud all up in its shit, and a holed IC would really mess up the works.

Would a water to air intercooler be solve this issue? I do respect that it would dramatically increase costs... but a solution nonetheless.

WTB progress, so I atleast feel like someone, somewhere, is enjoying spinning a wrench :(

[Dan_Gyoba]

At moderate boost levels, a top mounted IC (Like the Subaru stockers) might be a better idea. Heck at STOCK boost levels, you could probably just not run an intercooler at all with a 7M-GTE. That would signifigantly DECREASE the costs, and eliminate the risk of a holed IC.

I bet stock ICs for WRXs can be found relatively cheap. Put one of those under a hood scoop...

[Funkycheeze]

Would a water to air intercooler be solve this issue? I do respect that it would dramatically increase costs... but a solution nonetheless.

WTB progress, so I atleast feel like someone, somewhere, is enjoying spinning a wrench :(

Not really. You still need an extra radiator for the WTA system in front of the regular radiator, and if you hole it, all the coolant for the WTA system goes bye-bye. At least you wouldn't have a heinous intake leak.

[Smashey]

At moderate boost levels, a top mounted IC (Like the Subaru stockers) might be a better idea. Heck at STOCK boost levels, you could probably just not run an intercooler at all with a 7M-GTE. That would signifigantly DECREASE the costs, and eliminate the risk of a holed IC.

I bet stock ICs for WRXs can be found relatively cheap. Put one of those under a hood scoop...

I second this, not only would it be awesome to have a hood scoop to finish the looks but i thinks it would work good. Wouldn't a top mount intercooler use a significantly shorter amount of piping aswel?

[Supra_devil]

top mounts also don't work as well typically, even with hood scoops they will be hotter. there is a reason every car that has stock top mounts one of the first power mods is a frount mount.

if you're not doing serious 4x4ing then i would just do a high mounted front mount

[GOT_BOOST]

I'm sticking with the FMIC. The donor car I picked up had a nice upgraded FMIC and Aluminum Piping, which just "may" be enough for what I need to make it work. :D

In all honesty, this 4runner is going to see more road than offroad. LOL

[GOT_BOOST]

Ok..

So it's been a while since I've pulled any wrenches on the 4runner.

Friday I finally got around to removing the front and rear drive shafts, loosened the front motor mounts, removed the transmission support bracket. All I need to do now is dissconnect the fuel lines to the engine, a few grounds and pull the motor.

I did not take any pics of the drive shaft removal as it is well... nothing too exciting.

Here's a tip though. In the event the clutch was recently replaced and the drive shaft bolts tightened by Thor... here is what you need to remove them.

1 X 14mm box end wrench
1 X 14 mm 6 point 3/8 socket
1 X 1/2 to 3/8 reducer
1 X 6 inch 3/8 drive
1 X 1/2 inch impact air or electric gun.

The reason for the the 3/8 drive is that this will fit perfectly for the clearance allowed to access the nuts. Place the wrench on the bolt side of the drive shaft flange (back side) and the impact gun, socket and extension on the nut side of the flange. There are 4 nuts per drive shaft. It's easiest to have the truck up on axle stands and in neutral so you can spin the drive shaft to access the other nuts. A few quick pulls of the trigger and you have the nuts free.

I plan to do a bit more work on it this week and hopefully remove the engine this weekend

[GOT_BOOST]

Update May 09 2011:

I got in a bit of wrench time this weekend. The old 22RE exhaust, system is completely removed. The engine hoist and load leveler are in place and hooked up.

All I need left is to remove the clutch slave cylinder, drop the front sway bar and the engine and transmission will be coming out.

I hope to get at it this week.

[GOT_BOOST]

Update May 17, 2011:

Last night I started prepping the 7MGTE for install on the 4 runner. I removed the Automatic transmission flywheel and EGR system. The rear main seal looks healthy and does not leak.

At this point what is needed for the 7MGTE before she is ready to go in:

1) New valve cover gaskets
2) New pilot bearing (for manual transmission)
3) Check and or replace the timing belt, tensioner.
4) Check the cam seals to make sure they are not leaking
5) Install 7MGE Flywheel, clutch and pressure plate.
6) Inspect and or replace the head to block ventilation hose
7) Install the EGR block off plates
8) Check and or repace the CPS Cover.

When chump car is over this weekend, I'll be able to dedicate more time to this build.

[GOT_BOOST]

Update May 19 2011:

I removed the clutch slave cylinder, dropped the front sway bar, removed the fuel feed line for the engine, dissconnected the other motor mount, hooked up the engine hoist and load leveler.

All that is left is just to completely remove the front drive shaft and the motor and transmission are coming out.

Pics to come in a few days! WOOT!

[GOT_BOOST]

Update May 24 2011.

After retuning from Chump Car in Calgary I felt inspired to make more progress on this swap. Yesterday I pulled the engine and transmission in the 4runner.

A few key learning points when pulling the engine and tranny on this truck.

1) Make sure you have tripple checked ALL the lines and hoses.
2) Use the max reach setting on your engine hoist.
3) Dissconnect the front diff drive shaft flange BEFORE you pull the assembly. This flange gets in the way of the transfer case.
4) Remove all brackets, mounts etc. If it looks like it "might" dangle or get in the way... remove it.

some pics! :cool: :-D

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/247084_10150190917817191_528762190_7490404_5436478 _n.jpg

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/229316_10150190917952191_528762190_7490407_3043285 _n.jpg

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/250203_10150190918002191_528762190_7490408_5283973 _n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/230578_10150190918267191_528762190_7490415_6550670 _n.jpg

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/248618_10150190918387191_528762190_7490418_4622722 _n.jpg

[GOT_BOOST]

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/227497_10150190918652191_528762190_7490426_4239334 _n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/230386_10150190918802191_528762190_7490429_304305_ n.jpg

Sneaky front diff drive shaft flange..

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/249951_10150190918857191_528762190_7490431_5156546 _n.jpg

Another little get in the way bracket..

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/250940_10150190918912191_528762190_7490432_2021611 _n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/248295_10150190918952191_528762190_7490433_2152571 _n.jpg

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/227956_10150190919152191_528762190_7490439_8337403 _n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/248017_10150190919327191_528762190_7490443_3341840 _n.jpg

Time to clean the engine bay!

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/226881_10150190919202191_528762190_7490440_6449959 _n.jpg

[nothingbetter]

just found this website and I'm subscribed just because of this thread. I have an 85 pickup with a 7m gte in it. I'd like to swing by your place some night and see your project! I'll send you a pm.

[GOT_BOOST]

just found this website and I'm subscribed just because of this thread. I have an 85 pickup with a 7m gte in it. I'd like to swing by your place some night and see your project! I'll send you a pm.

Sounds good. I sent you a pm back.

The 4runner will be a lot of fun when it is done.

I'd love to check out your 85 pick up with the 7MGTE. :D

[GOT_BOOST]

So... I caved!

I ordered the Energy suspensions 3 inch body lift kit and the Hyperflex polyurethane bushings.

I didn't want to mess around with the oil pan, so... next best option.... Lift the body of the 4runner.

[Smashey]

Lol mike you should have lowered it instead would have been funny with some lo profile tires and big rims. Jk it'll look nice with a body lift imo.

[GOT_BOOST]

Lol mike you should have lowered it instead would have been funny with some lo profile tires and big rims. Jk it'll look nice with a body lift imo.

Hahaha. I would have had to remove the front diff and keep the 22RE for that! :D

I just ordered up the TRD Leather shift knob from ebay. One for my Supra and the other for my 4runner. :D

[hlvw wrecker]

So... I caved!

I ordered the Energy suspensions 3 inch body lift kit and the Hyperflex polyurethane bushings.

y lift the body when susp. lift kits are cheap, IMO i wouldn't do a body lift, too many ways to knock the cab/shift the cab after tagging a tree or rock.

you got this thing runnign yet? ;)

[Funkycheeze]

Probably to give enough room for the motor. Alot of guys that do the 3.4 V6 swap get at least a 1 inch body lift to make it easier.

[Dan_Gyoba]

@hlvw: The answer to your question is in the line below what you quoted... He didn't want to mess around with the oil pan.

[hlvw wrecker]

since the engine mounts to the frame not the body, why would the oilpan become and issue? do a SAS and oilpan depth nolonger becomes an issue

[Supra_devil]

sas?

[Funkycheeze]

Probably because he can then make his custom mounts to hold the engine a little higher in the frame.

SAS = solid axle swap, he won't do that as it is more of a mall crawler.

[hlvw wrecker]

ya, mike's abit of a bitch(don't picture this thing goin offroad much) j/k

[GOT_BOOST]

ya, mike's abit of a bitch(don't picture this thing goin offroad much) j/k

hahahahahah


Haters gunna hate!

[mtriples]

Probably because he can then make his custom mounts to hold the engine a little higher in the frame.

SAS = solid axle swap, he won't do that as it is more of a mall crawler.

Since everyone else is putting in their $0.02, I don't want to be left out.

I wanna see him fit a 3UZ in that bad boy :twisted:

[GOT_BOOST]

Since everyone else is putting in their $0.02, I don't want to be left out.

I wanna see him fit a 3UZ in that bad boy :twisted:

LOL.......

Hmmm.... That's an for another build project. :)

[GOT_BOOST]

YAY!!!! Some of my parts came in!

My TRD leather shif knob showed up, and valve cover gaskets, 3/8 and 5/8 PS lines, SS clutch line and my new CPS cover, pilot bearing and turbo timer harness! :D

Most have been installed

Time for pics..

TRD Shift knob (This pic is in my supra, I ordered one for it too)

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/255169_10150204346557191_528762190_7615451_989214_ n.jpg

Close up

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/254022_10150204346612191_528762190_7615452_6410216 _n.jpg

One of the EGR Block off plates. The hole has a plug in it now. It was a test fit. Plate made by Beech Performance.

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/254360_10150204346712191_528762190_7615454_4829234 _n.jpg

My W58 Stainless Steel Clutch hose. Suprisingly, this SS hose threads into the W56 "4Runner" clutch master cylinder and into the W58 "Supra" slave cylinder. :D

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/251355_10150204346832191_528762190_7615456_7026033 _n.jpg

Lots of length for the SS clucth line.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/255761_10150204346897191_528762190_7615458_5002277 _n.jpg

My new CPS cover, gasket and bolts installed. The old one crumbled while removing the cover and had many cracks in it.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/260133_10150204346947191_528762190_7615459_4567765 _n.jpg

[Piggity]

I don't know why you'd be surprised about the clutch hose fitting in both those masters. I bet all the clutch masters and probably all brake masters from Toyota are interchangeable. I had Greenline in Calgary build me a ss hose like yours for my 90' Cressida to fit a R154 into it. I used a mkiii supra master cylinder and slave.

[Dan_Gyoba]

I'm still using the W58 master cylinder in my 7M-GTE conversion. The slave line was different, but the master is the same. I'm also using the driftmotion braided SS line -- you remember what a mess of stuff we originally cobbled together for my clutch at first.

[GOT_BOOST]

I don't know why you'd be surprised about the clutch hose fitting in both those masters. I bet all the clutch masters and probably all brake masters from Toyota are interchangeable. I had Greenline in Calgary build me a ss hose like yours for my 90' Cressida to fit a R154 into it. I used a mkiii supra master cylinder and slave.

I'm used to running into various unforseen issues with something so very simple. I did not realize nor was expecting the fittings and the threads to be interchangeable. I was happy to find that out!

[GOT_BOOST]

Update June 13 2011:

It was a good weekend for prepping the engine to be installed in the 4runner.

I decided to open a few of my drift motion packages and put the contents inside to use! :cool:

1) Replaced both valve cover gaskets and the gasket bolts
2) Cleaned up the valve covers
3) Completed the EGR Block off plate install
4) Replaced all the spark plugs with Champion Copper plugs (I wanted to run cooler plugs, plus the copper plugs fire just as well as the platinum plugs in the other supra I have)
5) Replaced the CPS cover
6) Replaced the block to head ventillation hose.

I'll be replacing the rear main seal tonight (preventative maintenence) and installing the pilot bearing. I have a Supra MKII (5M-GE) front sump oil pan and oil pump on order. When I get those I will be replacing the 7M oil pump and pan. This will allow me to clear the front diff easier. It dawned on my that with the body lift.. that the chassis will not lift and I would still be in the same situation. :oops: With that issue resolved, I can still run my 33's easily and not worry about oil pan clearance issues.

After the pan and pump are replaced.. I will install the clutch and flywheel.

My next step is to unbolt the transmission from the 22RE, swap over the W58bell housing, lift the truck body, then get ready for the install.

[GOT_BOOST]

Update June 15 2011:

Last night I replaced the rear main seal and installed the pilot bearing. My flywheel and clutch install was cut short by not having enough clearance on the tire the engine is sitting on to do a flush mount. I need to wait for my engine hoist to return to me. When the hoist is returned, I will install the flywheel, clutch, swap out the oil pump and pan. I will then drop the motor into the chassis.

Untill then I will degrease and clean up the engine bay and pick up the GM RWD transmission mounts.

Pics..

Valve cover prep, cleaning, gasket install in progesss. Sparking plugs swapped out.

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/260413_10150207761012191_528762190_7653628_3961717 _n.jpg

New rear main seal and pilot bearing installed.

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/260355_10150207761792191_528762190_7653637_8058928 _n.jpg

[GOT_BOOST]

Update June 16 2011:

While waiting for my engine hoist to return home, I decided to to a little more prep work in the engine bay. I decided to clean the nice oil and grunge marks off as many spots as I could. I still have some more work to do however I'm sure the truck is about 15 lbs lighter.

I used a spray bottle of simple green automoive degreaser mixed 1:1 with water. A few shop towels and a green (plastic) scrub pad.

The engine bay and fire wall cleaned up nice.

Here's a few shots...

Engine bay before clean up

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/251090_10150208596582191_528762190_7657275_5342314 _n.jpg

Firewall before clean up
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/247442_10150208596937191_528762190_7657276_5391767 _n.jpg

Engine bay after clean up

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/251661_10150208598277191_528762190_7657278_7773989 _n.jpg

Fire wall after clean up

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/253474_10150208597302191_528762190_7657277_8013128 _n.jpg

[GOT_BOOST]

Update June 17 2011

I picked up my 5MGE Front sump oil pan and the 5MGE high flow front oil pump! Yay! Just waiting for my engine hoist to come back before I lift the motor, swap the pump, pan, and install the flywheel and clutch. :cool:

Pics of the awesomeness.

The oil pan sitting on the 7MGTE. :D

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/254570_10150209307747191_528762190_7662554_6137475 _n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/253747_10150209308102191_528762190_7662556_1431520 _n.jpg

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/265135_10150209308772191_528762190_7662563_8101559 _n.jpg

[hlvw wrecker]

this thing STILL isn't finished? less pic's more wrench spinning ;)

[nothingbetter]

I'm loving it Mike! Nice to see all the progress you've made. If you need any pictures or info just let me know and I'll see what I can do! Sorry I didn't get a chance to let you drive my truck. The last 2 weeks I was there were pretty hectic with studying and what not. Once your done the swap and have it all tuned up, I'll drive in and we'll go to one of these 780 friday meets...4x4 style! Naturally followed by a race!

[GOT_BOOST]

I'm loving it Mike! Nice to see all the progress you've made. If you need any pictures or info just let me know and I'll see what I can do! Sorry I didn't get a chance to let you drive my truck. The last 2 weeks I was there were pretty hectic with studying and what not. Once your done the swap and have it all tuned up, I'll drive in and we'll go to one of these 780 friday meets...4x4 style! Naturally followed by a race!

We should take it to castrol and tune in a few diesels! :D

No worries on the test drive. There will be other chances. It has been pretty hectic for me too.

this thing STILL isn't finished? less pic's more wrench spinning ;)

hahahaha. I've been waiting on parts, etc. It's tough to move forwards with out the parts. :D

I'm having my engine hoist returned tonight so I'll be swapping out the oil pump and pan, installing the flywheel and clutch.

I'm going to mopac today to pick up the GM RWD transmission mounts.

[GOT_BOOST]

June 24 2011 update:

Last night was pretty successfull. I was only stopped by a few small issues. 1st issue was I had no more acetone to clean the edge of the new pan and also clean the mating surface of the block.

Issue #2 was That my flywheel bolts were too small for the 7MGE flywheel. I think I tossed the Automatic transmission flywheel bolts and went to use the replacements I have.. Oh well.... I just need to order up a few more.

Where I'm at now...

1) The rear sump oil pan and pump have been removed. The front sump 5MGE pump has been installed, the oil cooler drain line installed on the 5MGE pan is installed, and I just need to bolt it up. I need my acetone to clean the surfaces first.

2) Clutch and flywheel are ready to go on pending new flywheel bolts.

3) The W56 bellhousing has been removed from the old transmission. The W58 has been installed and was a direct bolt up. The tranny is now sitting underneath the truck.

Pics of carnage. :D

[GOT_BOOST]

A few more pics.. including my "new" OEM color matching seat. LOL

[GOT_BOOST]

Repalced the grey steering colum cover with the correct blue one from Toyota.

[GOT_BOOST]

W56 Transmission and bellhousing after seperation from the engine.

[GOT_BOOST]

Update June 28 2011:

I've got my ARP flywheel bolts on order. They will be in on Thursday. Sometime over the weekend I will install my clutch and flywheel. WOOT!

I've installed the 5MGE front sump oil pump and pan. I needed to trim the dipstick tube by 1/2 an inch to give me the room required to bolt in the pan. I also have one 5M motor mount installed

Time for some pics and a teaser shot... :D

[Supra_devil]

redrill the block where the front sump dipstick goes. if you look you can see where the casting is there for it, but its not drilled.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/SupraDevil/83%20supra/7mgteswapstuff003a.jpg
red arrow is where i capped the stock mk3 hole, green is where the new hole was drilled

i'm not sure how accurate the midsump dipstick would be..

[GOT_BOOST]

redrill the block where the front sump dipstick goes. if you look you can see where the casting is there for it, but its not drilled.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/SupraDevil/83%20supra/7mgteswapstuff003a.jpg
red arrow is where i capped the stock mk3 hole, green is where the new hole was drilled

i'm not sure how accurate the midsump dipstick would be..

Perfect.

I will look into it when I install the 5MGE motor mount.

I will be also running the Autometer oil pressure gauge so that should give me a good indication of the oil in the engine.

[Funkycheeze]

You need to use a front sump dipstick and tube from a 5M to make this work also.

[GOT_BOOST]

Update July 06 2011:

I installed the flywheel and clutch last night. The clutch is pretty clost to being perfect but I will borrow a clutch alignment tool for perfect results.

The exhaust side 5M motor mount was installed, and I have ordered up an oil filter relocation kit and the polyurethane motor mount brackets.

Pics of the awesomeness.

[Dan_Gyoba]

So that's the 4A flywheel bolt set? Was it cheaper than the 7M one? Mine is supposedly out for delivery as of yesterday, but I haven't seen any sign of it yet. :(

[GOT_BOOST]

So that's the 4A flywheel bolt set? Was it cheaper than the 7M one? Mine is supposedly out for delivery as of yesterday, but I haven't seen any sign of it yet. :(

It is the same set. According to my search on Ebay. However if you go to MOPAC they will tell you that no ARP flywheel bolts exist. The set only cost me $29.00 all in.

[tig321]

It is the same set. According to my search on Ebay. However if you go to MOPAC they will tell you that no ARP flywheel bolts exist. The set only cost me $29.00 all in.
Where did you order the arp bolts from?

[hlvw wrecker]

It is the same set. According to my search on Ebay. However if you go to MOPAC they will tell you that no ARP flywheel bolts exist. The set only cost me $29.00 all in.

more reason to go to JB's than Mopac

[Dan_Gyoba]

Well, $25 at Driftmotion. Well, pluss shipping, but since I was ordering my clutch there anyway. I wonder if Driftmotion gets the 4A set and breaks them up so that 3 sets of 4A bolts = 4 sets of 7M.

[tig321]

Well, $25 at Driftmotion. Well, pluss shipping, but since I was ordering my clutch there anyway. I wonder if Driftmotion gets the 4A set and breaks them up so that 3 sets of 4A bolts = 4 sets of 7M.

Ding! Ding! Ding! Thats exactly right! MOPAC said they dont have 7m bolts because ARP does not list them, because they do not sell them. Aaron @ driftmotion just repackages the 4ag flywheel bolts. I suspect he is not the only vendor to do this.

[Supra_devil]

more reason to go to JB's than Mopac

getting the correct answer from mopac is a bad thing?

like was already said, there is no M series kit available, buy the 4A kit and its the same thing, just one extra bolt iirc.

JB's has never, not ever once, impressed me, even when i knew another supra owner working there i still got better deals at mopac (this was a long time ago before i was going through their wholesale side)

[GOT_BOOST]

So that's the 4A flywheel bolt set? Was it cheaper than the 7M one? Mine is supposedly out for delivery as of yesterday, but I haven't seen any sign of it yet. :(

$25.00 is not a bad price. I went to ebay and they were $25.00 ish plus about another $30.00 for shipping. Pulling the trigger at $29.00 was a no brainer. Plus that's how I was able to find out the 4A Flywheel bolts were the same as the 7M.

They come as a package of 8.

The only down side is that they did not come with the lube, nor an ARP sticker. I wanted another sticker for my tool box. :D

[Dan_Gyoba]

Got mine from Driftmotion. Seems that Canada Post employees forgot to charge the $10 + GST. Well, at least something good came of this mess.

Yeah, the package looks like the bottom 6 from the 4A package, so that's what it is. No problem though.

No, it didn't come with an alignment tool. No big deal, since the R154 doesn't need it.

[GOT_BOOST]

Got mine from Driftmotion. Seems that Canada Post employees forgot to charge the $10 + GST. Well, at least something good came of this mess.

Yeah, the package looks like the bottom 6 from the 4A package, so that's what it is. No problem though.

No, it didn't come with an alignment tool. No big deal, since the R154 doesn't need it.


hmm... I liked the package from MOPAC as they have the extra ones. :D

No worries about the clutch alignment tool. I think Glenn has one that I will check out.

[nothingbetter]

no need for the alignment tool if you have a good eye. You get that thing running yet Mike? We have to go cruise and race some losers in their little cars :p I put a duramax to shame today. He had a big rear window sticker that said "this truck was built with wrenches...not chopsticks" Naturally I was insulted and revved my engine at him, he revved back, but didn't do it again when he caught up at the next lights. I had mine on a dyno and it put 216hp 232ftlbs at 5200rpm at the wheels. Of course thats with the 35" tires. Can't wait to see what yours puts out!

[hlvw wrecker]

if he ever finished the damn thing

[Dan_Gyoba]

The motor is sitting on a tire in front of the 4Runner right now. Looks like there's a bit of work to be done before it's ready for the road, but it'll be great when it does.

[GOT_BOOST]

if he ever finished the damn thing


hahahaha.

I'm in no rush to get this prioject done Mike. :D

My time is very very limited right now so when I get a chance I'll go in and pull a few wrenched. I have my GM poluurethane transmission mounts for the motor mounts, the oil filter relocation kit. All I need now is a 5M dip stick and tube, tap the 5M port on the 7M block and install the engine.

[nothingbetter]

thats about 2 hours work right? :P

[GOT_BOOST]

Update Aug 02 2011. So I finally got around to pulling some wrenches on the truck yesterday.

I have the GM RWD transmission mount X2 installed as the motor mounts, the oil filter relocation kit installed.

I'm in the process of removing the old 7MGTE lower dipstick tube from the block. I need to drop the oil pan (again) to pop it out. She will not pull out of the block. I also need to drill the new dipstick tube for the front sump on the 7MGTE.

Anyone have a 5MGE dipstick tube and dipstick they are willing to part with?

Time for pics...

[GOT_BOOST]

moar pics! :D

[Grandavi]

Thats definitely one thing I need to do on my car.. oil filter relocation...

[GOT_BOOST]

Update Aug 03 2011

Alright...

Things are progressing well.

I have the engine in the truck. I just need to remove the steering stabalizer to allow for the oil pan to sit properly and the motor mount brackets to sit flush on the mounts.

The old dipstick tube was removed, a bolt installed and covered in gasket maker to keep oil from seeping out. The new oil port for the dipstick tube has been drilled.

Tonight the steering stabalizer comes out and the engine will be lightly bolted to the chassis.

Time for pics.

[nothingbetter]

been 2 months...progress report please! I'm back in NAIT mid April so hopefullly we can race our supracharged beasts then!

[GOT_BOOST]

Finally had a chance to work on it this weekend.... did a massive garage purge, and lined up parts for the next instalment.

I finished installing the oil filter relocation kit, Tightened up the drive belts, transmission bolts are found and beside the tranny ready to install tranny) just need to finish wiring up my 7 Pin reciever electrical.

This weekend I'm planning the following...

Install tranny and the walbro 255LPH fuel pump.

[GOT_BOOST]

Update Jan 30 2012:

With the help of Marcenator we installed the transmission yesterday. Were just missing a few bolts to get her fully bolted in.

Next up is installing the starter, transmission bracket, front sway bar, connecting the drive shafts.

[Keros]

Awesome. Now we need pics...

hint hint :D

[GOT_BOOST]

Awesome. Now we need pics...

hint hint :D

Oh they will be coming! :D

[cctool]

any update? great picts, good info. i love picts
i am doing this in an 80 yota
http://www.yotatech.com/f161/7mgte-motor-swap-into-80-a-231866/
here is what i did for the oil filter, i rotated it a little to clear the mounts
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/303168_1868779738751_1818821379_1267143_917877630_ n.jpg

[GOT_BOOST]

Not bad... :D

The only issue I see is that you may have a problem with the Turbo down pipe and the oil filter. That is why I relocated my oil filter.

I've made some more progress, just minor stuff such as installing the 7 Pin trailer harness, looking at relocating the battery, etc.

I have a few more things to bolt in, then I can bolt in the ECU, plug it in. I still have some electrical stuff to do. :D

She's coming along.

[GOT_BOOST]

Update Feb 21 2012:

Installed the drive shafts, Transmission bracket, bolted up a few mis odds and sods.

What is next is to install a pinion flange nut for the front dif.. then I can finishh bolting in the front drive shaft.

Next up is bolting in the ECU, Wiring, swapping out the Tach with the V6 one and the resistor mod. Then I can focus on running fuel lines, replacing the fuel pump, PS lines, fabrication of the front bumper, Radiator, etc. :D

Now some pics..

[cctool]

anything new? i got my motor out and should be doing a bunch more this week

[cctool]

got it stabbed. now time for the little stuff
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/546222_2582235174691_1818821379_1551506_2142890028 _n.jpg

[Keros]

Can you change the belts without pulling the motor :P

Looks awesome!

[cctool]

i should be able to change mine, just barely with the rad installed. i am going to run an air to water pipe intercooler.

[GOT_BOOST]

got it stabbed. now time for the little stuff
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/546222_2582235174691_1818821379_1551506_2142890028 _n.jpg

Looks good.

I am contemplating cutting the rad support so can install a rad... Measure twice.. cut once...

I've done a bit more work on it but nothing too crazy...

I need to fab a front bumper with intercooler mounts so the FMIC will fit nicely! :D

[cctool]

well it is wired up and runs. sounds like a monster without an exhaust.
now im building a 3" exhaust and getting ready to mount up the rad. i am going with a air to water inline intercooler. that way i can have room for it.
the older trucks dont have the bigger engine bay like the newer ones do.

without cutting the rad support there is NO WAY the engine would have been able to be stabbed in my truck.

[cctool]

a pict from last week. i am having a hesitation issue around 2k and the cel comes on. code 52. crap. i rewired both knock sensors and it is still there. the thing is scary fast. once i get the hicup fixed i will be one happy sob
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/545097_2698231634530_1818821379_1600853_1758792269 _n.jpg

[nothingbetter]

hey CC. Make sure you change that 90 degree elbow right off the turbo. As soon as I did that I gained 4 psi of boost with 3" straight piped. Are you living in Edmonton too? I'd like to see your swap in person and show you mine!

[cctool]

i am down in arizona.
thanks for the advice. the turbo piping is just temporary for now until my I/C comes in then i will be getting all good pipe.

[cctool]

here is the latest. both fans installed, re-torqued head bolts, installed gauges, etc...
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/544671_2800959082652_1818821379_1646539_925239939_ n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/292269_2800959922673_1818821379_1646540_1716715455 _n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/181416_2800960762694_1818821379_1646542_150734501_ n.jpg

[Grandavi]

I cant figure out your intercooler run looking at that. Gonna be a nice ride when your finished though.

[Dan_Gyoba]

Looks like no intercooler at all to me. Turbo outlet to "U" bend to a 90 degree to the 3000 pipe.

[Grandavi]

I guess you can run without an intercooler as long as you dont overboost.. you running stock or gonna up it to 10psi 'ish?

[annoyingrob]

Always run an ic. It's just hot air otherwise.

[cctool]

yea i ordered a water to air intercooler that is about the same dimensions as the "3000" pipe. BUT it is backordered so i will be getting it as soon as they get some in. in the mean time i am running stock boost and not pushing it hard. but yea i am not a fan of no intercooler just no room otherwise.