View Full Version : My newish Rig 1995 Toyota 4 Runner
GOT_BOOST
06-27-2010, 12:09 AM
I just purchased this today. I take delivery on Monday night.
Only 190,000 kms on the clock.
She is a 5 speed, 4X4. :thumbup:
Engine 22RE
Time for the pics.
My old 1988 Toyota Pick up 4X4 is now up for sale. :D
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs181.snc4/37364_406580767190_528762190_5012256_6487031_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs161.snc4/37364_406580772190_528762190_5012257_5343103_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs181.snc4/37364_406580777190_528762190_5012258_4553780_n.jpg
abuseddog
06-27-2010, 07:24 AM
Looks like it is in pretty decent shape.
I like the idea of the 22r instead of the v6. Hopefully internet rules allow asking what kind of price tag did it carry.
Still looking to replace the wrecked supra, and would consider something like this as a viable option.
GOT_BOOST
06-27-2010, 02:25 PM
Looks like it is in pretty decent shape.
I like the idea of the 22r instead of the v6. Hopefully internet rules allow asking what kind of price tag did it carry.
Still looking to replace the wrecked supra, and would consider something like this as a viable option.
It is pretty clean.
I wanted the 22RE as it is more reliable and there are more upgrades for it.
The kid was asking $2,000.00 but I picked it up for $1,000.00. It had been for sale for a month and had a few very minor (major for non car guys) issues that need to be addressed.
The plan is to turn it into a hauler, do some light off roading, tow a boat, and use it to haul my bike.
My upgrade lists include..
A ) Replacing the head with this PTE-1 (1985-1995 EFI) This head features:
1. New cylinder head casting (resurfaced to the proper RA)
2. Powdered metal exhaust seats
3. Reground OEM 280 / 440 camshaft (our design, custom ground just for us)
4. Ferrea 45.5mm (1mm oversize) stainless steel swirl polished intake valves
5. Ferrea 37.5mm (1mm oversize) stainless steel swirl polished exhaust valves
6. Performance 70lb. valve springs
7. 5-angle intake valve seat cut (our custom profile using our Serdi 3.0)
8. Fully radiused exhaust valve seat cut (our custom design)
9. Intake and exhaust ports machined and blended at valve side (click for video)
10. Metal clad Viton valve stem seals
http://22reperformance.com/22RE%20Performance%20-%20Cylinder%20heads.html
B) Replacing all the bushings with the energy suspension poly urethane bushings. They are looking a little worn underneath. I do not plan to lift the truck, just keep it ride height for now.
C) Fix the speedometer (Clutch was just done and the speedo does not work.) I just have to make sure the speedo cable is installed properly. LOL.
D) Machine the front rotors, the have a killer wobble when I step on the brakes. :D
E) Repair and repaint the rear hatch and passenger front fender.
F) I am contemplating installing an OEM sunroof. I can grab one from a wrecker with all the wiring and everything I need.
Now for a few goodies I scored at pick and pull today :blue:
I will now mount the spare tire on here. My 4runner did not have this.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs122.snc4/36455_406761852190_528762190_5020035_1018508_n.jpg
And a trailer hitch. :blue: Both of these items came from a 92 4Runner.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs067.snc3/13446_406762427190_528762190_5020038_4088812_n.jpg
Keros
06-28-2010, 10:12 AM
BAH! Why would you upgrade the 22R? Blastphamy!
You should look into swapping a 5VZ-FE. I'm glad you have the 22R instead of the 3VZ-FE [aka the 3.slo], but the 5VZ has way more grunt at 190hp, 220ft-lbs of torque. I know the 22R's got some balls, but the 5VZ will make that 4Runner into a rocket ship by comparison. I've no problem passing people in my 3rd gen, and the 2nd Gen drops a few hundred pounds, so yours would be even faster.
The 5VZ is pretty much immortal. When someone blows one up and posts on TTORA, for instance, people say things like "man, that sucks, no one blows up those motors, you really fucked up man".
And ontop of that, you can supercharge for a decent price with no internal modifications. Just need fuel and timing control, probably a MAFT-PRO would do the job. Anyway, I recommend looking into the 5VZ-FE swap; I think there's some shops that sell kits complete with motor and trans mounts, and everything you need. I see people parting out 3rd gen trucks regularly so you should be able to find an engine for a decent price. Probably cheaper than those ferrara valves.
My truck gets about 12L/100km in the city and 9-10L/100km on the highway, depending on conditions. And it'll cruise at 140-150km/hr... I dunno if a 22R can do that.
Keros
06-28-2010, 10:14 AM
Oh, and HOLY CRAP that body is a NICE shape! Wow.
GOT_BOOST
06-28-2010, 10:46 AM
Oh, and HOLY CRAP that body is a NICE shape! Wow.
Thanks.. I work out! AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHA HA...A..H..A....ERR...YEAH.... LOL
It is in very good shape. The rear door is a different color and has a bit of suface rust and a small dent (hence why I will repair and repaint) The kid was telling me that he was backing out of his heated garage when it was -30 ish out and the back window exploded when it it came incontact with the cold. It was cheaper for him to get a new rear door with the glass from pick and pull than it was to get the glass replaced. Why he did not swap over the glass.. I guess it was easier for him to swap over the gate. :dunno:
I am picking it up tonight at 6:00 pm.
WOOT!
GOT_BOOST
06-28-2010, 12:45 PM
BAH! Why would you upgrade the 22R? Blastphamy!
You should look into swapping a 5VZ-FE. I'm glad you have the 22R instead of the 3VZ-FE [aka the 3.slo], but the 5VZ has way more grunt at 190hp, 220ft-lbs of torque. I know the 22R's got some balls, but the 5VZ will make that 4Runner into a rocket ship by comparison. I've no problem passing people in my 3rd gen, and the 2nd Gen drops a few hundred pounds, so yours would be even faster.
The 5VZ is pretty much immortal. When someone blows one up and posts on TTORA, for instance, people say things like "man, that sucks, no one blows up those motors, you really fucked up man".
And ontop of that, you can supercharge for a decent price with no internal modifications. Just need fuel and timing control, probably a MAFT-PRO would do the job. Anyway, I recommend looking into the 5VZ-FE swap; I think there's some shops that sell kits complete with motor and trans mounts, and everything you need. I see people parting out 3rd gen trucks regularly so you should be able to find an engine for a decent price. Probably cheaper than those ferrara valves.
My truck gets about 12L/100km in the city and 9-10L/100km on the highway, depending on conditions. And it'll cruise at 140-150km/hr... I dunno if a 22R can do that.
hahahaha.
I like the 22R,
She is a good work horse! I did not want the 3VZ-FE. I have heard those engines have issues.
I may look at swapping the 5VZ-FE in later, but I do not want to take on more cost than need be. I think spending $800.00 USD for the head with all the upgrades will be sufficient. :D
The 22RE is very fuel efficient. I could go for ever and a day on one tank of fuel in the city and the highway on my old 84 Pick Up 2WD. The power was decent for what it was.
The boat I am looking at is a water ski/fishing boat. It will not weigh a lot. :D
Keros
06-30-2010, 08:47 AM
Good stuff!
Yeah, you really don't want the 3VZ-FE. It's called the 3.slo because it is actually, in practice, slower than the 22R. This is because the 3VZ-FE is significantly heavier than the 22R but only makes a bit more power and torque... but has bad headgaskets, leaks like a sieve, and is generally better suited for a boat anchor than propelling an SUV down the road.
The 22R is a much better engine. I've debated buying a 2nd gen to put a 1UZ in... maybe one day I will.
GOT_BOOST
07-01-2010, 10:22 PM
Good stuff!
Yeah, you really don't want the 3VZ-FE. It's called the 3.slo because it is actually, in practice, slower than the 22R. This is because the 3VZ-FE is significantly heavier than the 22R but only makes a bit more power and torque... but has bad headgaskets, leaks like a sieve, and is generally better suited for a boat anchor than propelling an SUV down the road.
The 22R is a much better engine. I've debated buying a 2nd gen to put a 1UZ in... maybe one day I will.
ahahahah. I have heard them referenced to as the 3. Slo.
You should pick up a 4Runner. I have been driving this one for a few days now and I really enjoy it. The 22RE has enough power to get me around. Sure, more power would be nice but not needed at this point.
There is minor stuff I need to replace such as:
Outer CV boot on the drivers side
A Snapped Speedo Cable (verified by pulling out the snapped cable today. 3 feet came completely out of the sheaf) LOL
Upper ball joints on both sides (I am replacing the lower ones also, I picked up a set on ebay) :D
Minor interior odds and ends.
These are all minor items to maintain.
Considering the price I paid, I have no issues replacing these items. :D
annoyingrob
07-02-2010, 07:19 PM
Keros already has a 4Runner.
That's a super price for that 4Runner! Go go 22R-E. They may have their issues from time to time, but none of mine have ever failed to get me home.
Dan_Gyoba
07-02-2010, 07:47 PM
22R has a timing chain, right? That's about the only thing that has ever caused me to be unable to run my 7M is a broken timing belt. That's the only time that a Toyota has ever left me stranded...
GOT_BOOST
07-03-2010, 11:09 PM
Dan,
Yes, the 22R has a timing chain. :)
I installed my towbar today, and fixed some minor wiring issues.
I picked up a 5,000 lb tow ball and a nice adapter from princes auto.
I also picked up a 7 wire connector so I can run a 12 volt from the battery. I have the first part installed. I need to splice into the vehicle harness now and run a 10 gauge wire from the battery to the reciever. :)
Keros
07-05-2010, 08:48 AM
I <3 4Runners. I have a '96, which in my opinion is the best year of the 3rd Gen, aside from '97... it's the only two years that are non-OBDII, ultra simple, and pretty much bullet proof. However, not rust proof :(
I presume you got a "hidden-hitch" sort of deal? Did you buy it new or used? I've seen people selling used 3rd gen hitches for $20 less than new, it's rediculous... and the reason my truck is still hitch-less.
GOT_BOOST
07-05-2010, 09:25 AM
I <3 4Runners. I have a '96, which in my opinion is the best year of the 3rd Gen, aside from '97... it's the only two years that are non-OBDII, ultra simple, and pretty much bullet proof. However, not rust proof :(
I presume you got a "hidden-hitch" sort of deal? Did you buy it new or used? I've seen people selling used 3rd gen hitches for $20 less than new, it's rediculous... and the reason my truck is still hitch-less.
Nice. I wanted a 96, but the price for this one was perfect!
I did get a "hidden hitch" I installed it this weekend. I picked it up from Pick and Pull for $35.00 all in. :D
The 95 is simple too. I like it. I greased the door hinges, greased the rear window track for the tailgate. It is nice to see it open and close smoothly. I was a little concerned as it would shutter and vibrate before.
GOT_BOOST
07-05-2010, 09:25 AM
I did a little work on the rig this weekend.
I installed my tow bar, picked up an adapter, 2" Ball and a 7 pin Wire connector. :thumbup:
Sometime this week I will install the 7 pin wire connector and run the 12Ga wire from the battery to the 7 pin wire connector. I went with a 7 wire RV connector as I can run a 12V aux power outlet off it. One never knows when I may need to inflate something such as a tire, or a Tube, etc.
Here are a few pics.
Reciever and ball purchased at Princess Auto. This pic was taken before the Ball was tightened up. The 7 pin wire connector will be installed this week. This is why it is missing from the photo.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs138.snc4/37242_409133682190_528762190_5085681_6919967_n.jpg
New hardware for the tow bar. I needed to drill into the frame for the second bolt to go in. I installed the 1/2" 1.5 inch Grade 5 Bolts. That should be sufficient. Suprisingly I was able to get the bolts and washers at Canadian Tire for next to nothing.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs062.snc4/34462_409134322190_528762190_5085712_7125168_n.jpg
I ordered up 2 new upper and 2 new lower ball joints on ebay for $101.00 shipped. They should arrive this week. WOOT!
Keros
07-08-2010, 11:56 AM
If you've got the rear endgate apart, make sure to seal up around the handle REALLY REALLY well with whatever it takes to make it waterproof. It's the classic 4Runner rust: below the endgate handle.
GOT_BOOST
07-12-2010, 09:45 AM
If you've got the rear endgate apart, make sure to seal up around the handle REALLY REALLY well with whatever it takes to make it waterproof. It's the classic 4Runner rust: below the endgate handle.
Thanks for the tip. The tailgate has some spots of surface rust, but nothing of the regular rust. I will grind out that rust and apply body filler, prime and paint it.
I replaced the speedo cable last week. It is nice having a working speedometer. :D
It turns out the person who installed the new clutch pinched the speedo cable between the bell housing and the engine.
I had to cut out the speedo cable around that section. I did not want to loosen off transmission bolts and remove a million items to remove that small section. When I need to do the clutch again, I will get it done.
I picked up a perfect clean passenger rear door from pick an pull yesterday. All I have to do is scuff, prime and paint it. WOOT! My existing rear door had a few rust issues on it.
All I need now are a passenger front fender, and a fuel door.
My ball joints should be arriving today. I picked up new front pads and rotors. I will do all the front end work at the same time. That way I only need to do it once. WOOT!
Keros
07-13-2010, 09:28 AM
Have you checked into BBKs for that generation? There might be some beefier brakes swappable. I know for my third gen you can get the tundra rotors and calipers, which are only 5mm bigger in diameter, but are 14mm or something thicker with way beefier calipers to match. Apparently they don't fade nearly as quickly due to the extra mass.
Because it's OEM parts, it's not much more expensive than a rotor/pad replacement, turning in your calipers as cores.
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