James Earl
05-26-2005, 04:23 PM
R154 Transmission Removal Made Easy.
So for any particular reason you find yourself in need of tranny work and have spent your last dollar on oil & coolant in anticipation of the BHG. Well this is what I have learned this weekend.
Jack the car up as high as you can safely get it. You will be spending a lot of time under there and will need room to move and slide the tranny out later. Be sure it is stable. I like to put on some old school punk music and slam dance into the car to test this but you may have a better way. Disconnect the battery.
Begin to drain the oil from the transmission at this point. It will seem to run forever so start this and move to the next step.
Start from the back of the car and work your way up. I remove the exhaust pipe from the CAT back point. I leave my down pipe on the car. All you are doing is clearing the path for the driveshaft to be removed.
Remove the cross bar from the body just before differential. This is used as a safety for the driveshaft.
Remove the centre bearing support from the body of the car. At this point the drive shaft should lower. Sliding the driveshaft back it should slide out from the rear of the transmission. You can push it off to the side of the car out of the way. Do not remove it from the differential, as that is not required.
Place a jack under the transmission to take some of the weight off it. Begin to remove the cross support bolts. Remove the four (4) from the transmission first then the four (4) from the body. Lower the tail of the transmission.
This will give you access too remove the speedo cable and the neutral switch from the transmission.
Remove the driver side access panel from the bell housing. Also take the slave cylinder off and remove the clutch fork.
Loosen the engine mounts from the bottom of the car. Back them out quite a bit but do not remove them if you don’t need to.
The starter is easy to reach from below the car. You can remove the positive power lead/cable from below the starter. At the same time disconnect the plugged wire for the starter relay.
Earlier Supras will have a starter that does not thread bolts into it and you will find a nut and bolt setup. This will make you sad because you will need a helper to remove the starter. OK, reaching in around the intake manifold you will need to place a fixed box wrench onto the bolt and have your helper hold it there while you remove the bolt from below.
From below the car you will need a 14mm deep socket and 1.5 to 2 feet of extension. Feed the socket in from the back of the transmission and have your helper guide the socket to the upper bolt. The lower starter bolt you can see from below the car.
(Older Supra’s will have a threaded housing on the starter and you can remove the bolts without a helper, as it will not have nuts. Yes it’s out newer Supras have no nuts!)
While you and your helper are there you might as well remove the upper bell-housing bolt. This bolt is located below the heater hose outlet just towards the centre of the car from the starter bolts. I mention this because the first time I did not know this bolt was located there and you have no way of seeing it from any angle.
Now move back to the lower bell housing. Place a match mark on the flywheel and pressure plate so you can line them up on reinstall. Begin to remove the bolts from the pressure plate housing, releasing it from the flywheel. Toyota recommends you release them one turn at a time until they have no more tension on them.
There are six (6) in total and I find using a 12mm with an extension through the hole the slave cylinder was in most effective. Now turning the flywheel is not easy from your location. It would be best to have your helper put a 19mm socket onto the crank pulley and turn the motor when you need it. Once all the bolts are removed you may have to use a screwdriver to separate the parts.
Now finish removing the rest of the housing bolts. Start lowering the transmission slowly while at the same time moving it away from the engine. Once you have lowered the tranny enough to reach over the top, disconnect the wires for the backup light switch connector. Lower the transmission out of the car.
Done.
To put it back in, read this backwards!
So for any particular reason you find yourself in need of tranny work and have spent your last dollar on oil & coolant in anticipation of the BHG. Well this is what I have learned this weekend.
Jack the car up as high as you can safely get it. You will be spending a lot of time under there and will need room to move and slide the tranny out later. Be sure it is stable. I like to put on some old school punk music and slam dance into the car to test this but you may have a better way. Disconnect the battery.
Begin to drain the oil from the transmission at this point. It will seem to run forever so start this and move to the next step.
Start from the back of the car and work your way up. I remove the exhaust pipe from the CAT back point. I leave my down pipe on the car. All you are doing is clearing the path for the driveshaft to be removed.
Remove the cross bar from the body just before differential. This is used as a safety for the driveshaft.
Remove the centre bearing support from the body of the car. At this point the drive shaft should lower. Sliding the driveshaft back it should slide out from the rear of the transmission. You can push it off to the side of the car out of the way. Do not remove it from the differential, as that is not required.
Place a jack under the transmission to take some of the weight off it. Begin to remove the cross support bolts. Remove the four (4) from the transmission first then the four (4) from the body. Lower the tail of the transmission.
This will give you access too remove the speedo cable and the neutral switch from the transmission.
Remove the driver side access panel from the bell housing. Also take the slave cylinder off and remove the clutch fork.
Loosen the engine mounts from the bottom of the car. Back them out quite a bit but do not remove them if you don’t need to.
The starter is easy to reach from below the car. You can remove the positive power lead/cable from below the starter. At the same time disconnect the plugged wire for the starter relay.
Earlier Supras will have a starter that does not thread bolts into it and you will find a nut and bolt setup. This will make you sad because you will need a helper to remove the starter. OK, reaching in around the intake manifold you will need to place a fixed box wrench onto the bolt and have your helper hold it there while you remove the bolt from below.
From below the car you will need a 14mm deep socket and 1.5 to 2 feet of extension. Feed the socket in from the back of the transmission and have your helper guide the socket to the upper bolt. The lower starter bolt you can see from below the car.
(Older Supra’s will have a threaded housing on the starter and you can remove the bolts without a helper, as it will not have nuts. Yes it’s out newer Supras have no nuts!)
While you and your helper are there you might as well remove the upper bell-housing bolt. This bolt is located below the heater hose outlet just towards the centre of the car from the starter bolts. I mention this because the first time I did not know this bolt was located there and you have no way of seeing it from any angle.
Now move back to the lower bell housing. Place a match mark on the flywheel and pressure plate so you can line them up on reinstall. Begin to remove the bolts from the pressure plate housing, releasing it from the flywheel. Toyota recommends you release them one turn at a time until they have no more tension on them.
There are six (6) in total and I find using a 12mm with an extension through the hole the slave cylinder was in most effective. Now turning the flywheel is not easy from your location. It would be best to have your helper put a 19mm socket onto the crank pulley and turn the motor when you need it. Once all the bolts are removed you may have to use a screwdriver to separate the parts.
Now finish removing the rest of the housing bolts. Start lowering the transmission slowly while at the same time moving it away from the engine. Once you have lowered the tranny enough to reach over the top, disconnect the wires for the backup light switch connector. Lower the transmission out of the car.
Done.
To put it back in, read this backwards!