Franco's Rod Knock Rebuild

[AbsoluteSpeed]

Well parts are starting to show up so I thought I would share.

It is an 87' white Supra with a 7M-gte and over 200,000kms. And as of 6 or 7months ago, rod knock.
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/3.4.jpg

I only paid $900 for it about a year ago but spent close to twice that getting it tuned up and running right. Had it repainted Alpine white but it was not the best job. It is now peeling and rusting.

I plan to make this car reliable and fast. Im going to build her from the inside out to make sure she stays that way.

I have a whole list of parts but will start with the ones I got. The rest should be here tomorrow (would have been today if I got to UPS in time)

only got 2 things to share.
The flywheel-
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01281.jpg?t=1221098741

your typical Fidanza

The Pistons!!-
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01278.jpg?t=1221098799

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01280.jpg?t=1221098828

These are JE Pistons .020" over made for Titan Motorsports!!
I was so excited when I got these I was literally shaking.

Didn't pay any fees shipping these across the border and the fees on the stuff I am picking up tomorrow is nothing in compared to what I thought it would be. I have Aaron from Driftmotion to thank for that. Like every one says he is great to deal with and works with his customers.

I cant wait to get her running again. so close yet so so far.

Oh and because I can here is a pic of our new dog Milo
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01269.jpg?t=1221098582 http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01275.jpg?t=1221098692

[JimR]

Subscribed! It's hard to see the dish on those pistons... they do have a dish, don't they?

Is this the one? http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/titanmotorsports_2015_344572541

[AbsoluteSpeed]

Subscribed! It's hard to see the dish on those pistons... they do have a dish, don't they?

Is this the one? http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/titanmotorsports_2015_344572541

Similar, but with no dish :p
Slightly concaved but no dish
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01283.jpg?t=1221180360 http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01284.jpg?t=1221180526

[JimR]

Did they provide you with a reference compression ratio with those pistons? What compression ratio are you going for?

My hunch is 9.0-9.2:1 with those!

[AbsoluteSpeed]

Only got one of the two boxes the other was still on the UPS truck that was somewhere around town..
Not the most thrilling, fairly basic actually.

Oil pump-
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01285.jpg?t=1221181400
Going to have to figure out how to shim this open 5mm

Water pump-
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01287.jpg?t=1221181456
What is the part number on the water pump?
I just want to double check as it says NISSAN on the box!

These are not nessesary but I thought it was a good idea anyway
Clutch master cylender-
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01286.jpg?t=1221181520

Motor mounts-
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01288.jpg?t=1221181549
Kind of embarrassing but I only ordered one mount (thinking they were sold in pairs) but talked to Aaron he said not to worry about it.
and here they are!

The rest tomorrow. I hope

[AbsoluteSpeed]

Did they provide you with a reference compression ratio with those pistons? What compression ratio are you going for?

My hunch is 9.0-9.2:1 with those!

This is part of the e-mail I got for the pistons.

...they have upgraded tool steel pins, nitrided steel rings, 9.0:1 compression, .020" over...

[JimR]

Must be those huge valve pockets that offset the flat tops. Lookin good!

[Keros]

Parts porn. Sweet.

Aaron is FTW... so many times he's saved my dumbass cuz I ordered the wrong thing.

[Dan_Gyoba]

Heh. Yeah, Aaron is a great guy.

I ordered a braided clutch line, was supposed to be just the last bit from the hardline to the slave cylinder. He shipped me the kit that goes straight from the clutch master to the slave cylinder, because it's better. :)

[AbsoluteSpeed]

More parts porn.
Most of these speak for them self.
Eagle rods- http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01305.jpg?t=1221356968 http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01307.jpg?t=1221356793

Act Stage 2 clutch-http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01304.jpg?t=1221357017

Cone air cleaner-http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01303.jpg?t=1221357061

ARP head/main/flywheel bolts-http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01302.jpg?t=1221357091

Clevite77 bearings and exhaust studs-http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01301.jpg?t=1221357120

w56 slave cylinder-http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01300.jpg?t=1221357149

Samco rad hose-http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01299.jpg?t=1221357234

HKS 2.0mm bead mhg-http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01298.jpg?t=1221357269

Gready Timing belt-http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01297.jpg?t=1221357301

[AbsoluteSpeed]

Cold start and Clutch hose-http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01294.jpg?t=1221357329

Power steering hose- mine blew last winter during the -40* spellhttp://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01293.jpg?t=1221357372

Oil Pump Hose -8 AN-http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01292.jpg?t=1221357403

CT26 Oil Softline Kit-http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01289.jpg?t=1221357459
I got the rest of this stuff yesterday I was just to lazy to post it.
I brought all the parts to the shop today and gave them a list of what I want them to do to the motor. I will be getting a new quote on how much it will cost and go from there.

[strictlySupra]

fuckin sweet.

are you gunna be drifting this monster next year or whats the plan

[AbsoluteSpeed]

The plan is to make sure this freaken thing never costs me another cent.
And I already drifted into a curb last year ($1000) so I dont think I will drift it. But I cant wait to see yours post some pics or videos, sumthing!

[AbsoluteSpeed]

And Im an idiot.
Some how I assumed I only had a w58 trans but I dont. I have the r154.
This makes me happy and sad at the same time.:?
I think I am going to give my self one of these:buttkick:

[Dan_Gyoba]

So I guess that means that you have a brand new flywheel, slave cylinder, and clutch for sale, hey?

[AbsoluteSpeed]

Wait what?
The flywheel and clutch should not matter.. do they?

[JimR]

If I had my EPC on this laptop I'd tell you about the transmission stuff. But I'm sure Dan will chime in.

Here are two things to check that the shop does right. Forgive me if I'm telling you stuff you already know. :-) :
1. Tighten those rod bolts using the proper stretch technique as opposed to the reference torque values.
2. Drill out any rivets on the MHG that get sandwiched in between the head and block. FYI I had to drill out 2 of the 5 on my HKS 1.2mm. Do NOT use brake quiet or gasket sealer of any kind on the headgasket! The only exception to this is the tiny bit specified in the TSRM around the timing cover.

[JimR]

Wait what?
The flywheel and clutch should not matter.. do they?

Actually... I'll hazard a guess here. This is a good-news post, based on some assumptions!

First off, that slave cylinder you have will definately not work! The R154 has a pull-type clutch, and the slave cylinder is quite different.

Second: As far as I know, the Driftmotion clutch packages are only built for R154's. That pic sure looks like the same pressure plate I have.

Third: You *may* be able to use the clutch line you have, it all depends on if it's long enough.

If you really do have a pressure plate and clutch for a W58, they cannot be used on the R154. They move the wrong way.

[Dan_Gyoba]

Okay, yeah, looking at the pressure plate, that is an R154 clutch.

The flywheel I believe to be different (to addomodate the different clutch) betwen the R154 and W58. It's the same bolt to the crank, of course. I thought though that the pressure plate bolt pattern was different though. I'd have to check.

What I know to be the same between the two is the clutch disc itself. The splines on the W58 and R154 are the same, so the same disc is used for both models.

The clutch mater to slave line will work fine for either. No problems there, but the slave clinder is definitely not going to work. (That's the complete braided line that goes directly from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder, correct?)

[AbsoluteSpeed]

All the stage 2, 3, and 4 cluches and the Fidanza flywheel are for the turbo transmission, R154.
The w58 pressure plate looks totally different.

Thank God Aaron is amazing.

And Dan / Jim thanks for trying to help me figure this out!

[Dan_Gyoba]

So Aaron is making it all good? Sounds like him. I know who I'll be ordering my next parts order from!

[AbsoluteSpeed]

Small hickup.. pistons are not the right ones.
Can anyone guess what these 86mm pistons (85.999 if your picky) are ment for??

[azrael]

1j/2j?

[AbsoluteSpeed]

2J now if only I had the motor to go with it..

Side note: Keegan just noticed your sig, when did you get a rx7? 1980 makes it an fb, right?

[Keros]

Yeah, 7M is 83mm... I think a 1.5mm over bore might not work so good :(

[AbsoluteSpeed]

YEA!!
Got the pistons yesterday took some pictures then brought them in to the shop.
That only took 3 1/2 weeks to get the right ones shipped back:mad:.

Oh well. I'm to lazy to post the pictures tonight, maybe tomorrow.

[AbsoluteSpeed]

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01325.jpg?t=1227463896 http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01326.jpg?t=1227463984 http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01324.jpg?t=1227463787

[JimR]

Those look better!

Assembly tips if you're putting the rods on:
1. Get some assembly lube in the pin holes in the piston, and then fully install one of the snap rings.
2. Put the rod in place (orientation and numbering!!!) and slide the pin through so it pushes up against the snap ring.
3. Doublecheck your numbering and orientation, then install the second snap ring.

[AbsoluteSpeed]

Thanks Jim, but this motor is being built for me. It costs a shit load of $$$ but I cant afford to do it twice.

[AbsoluteSpeed]

Alright, I stopped by TBS (The Block Shop) today to see if they have had a chance to start on my motor and was pleasantly surprised.

The guy that came up front was the one building my motor, he laughed and told me he just started on it yesterday. We started talking, he was telling me about the 400hp NA 7m he is building for his 4runner (he was just pulling it out of the 87 Supra when I came in) and how he has worked on Toyotas since the ‘70s.

But you don’t care about that, neither do I really but it is reassuring. So he brought me back to see my motor and well.. I had to take pictures.

So Clean
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01327.jpg

So Very Clean
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01328.jpg

You know how sometimes the little things seem to mean the most?
I didn’t ask them to paint the valve covers, I would have but thought they would send them out to get painted and I would get a $500 bill for it. But they just did it. Same with the harmonic balancer and brackets and things. I love the color too!
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01329.jpg

Painted oil pan, dusty but painted
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01330.jpg

Balanced assembly
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01331.jpg

Everything is together
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01332.jpg

Painted block, so Sexy!
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01333.jpg

ooOOooo Shiny!
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01334.jpg

And Smooth
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01335.jpg

The guy building it (I should really learn his name) is absolutely meticulous. I should have taken a picture, he had sonic cleaned every bolt and they were neatly standing on a tray. :D

I did notice one thing though, I had bought a braided oil line and it was not installed. I’ll have to call them on Monday.

[Dan_Gyoba]

looks great! That's going to be a nice plant.

[AbsoluteSpeed]

Thanks Dan. Even comes with warranty ;)

[AbsoluteSpeed]

This morning I got the last part I need from Dan (thanks for the fan shroud Dan!) and tried to bring the car into the shop. Unfortunately I could not get a tow truck in time.

But I went down to sort some small things out and to see the final product.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01339.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01337.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01336.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/DSC01340.jpg

Take a look at the HG in that last pic, it's defenatly not the 2.0mm HKS gasket I bought. Apparently the motor had been decked quite alot by the last owner, thanks Tim :p, this new copper HG is .080" thick to make up the difference and is the last one in north america :cool:

[JimR]

What are your tuning plans? Same place, or somewhere else, or keep the boost down and do it later?

[AbsoluteSpeed]

I may shim the wastegate open a bit or splurge and get a new spring but for the time being stock tune/psi.
Once I pay it off and get some money away for school maybe..

There is plenty more I would like to do if I had the money, like:
-New paint
-Megan coilovers
-Custom exhaust w. cutouts
-Seperate high and low headlights like this
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/wheelfitment12-1.jpg
Low beams on the outside, high beams on the inside
'rodel' on SM has done it.

But right now I'll settle for running with no rust.

Oh and that 2j cressida I was talking about isnt a cressida its a corolla AE86!!!...:eek:

[Dan_Gyoba]

That 7M sure looks pretty. "No Rust" is unfortunately a state that I left behind a few years back, and I just can't see any way that my curren chassis will ever return to that state... Realistically, that is.

I think that stock boost/tuning is probably a wise idea. With a solid build behind it, the 7M will last a good long time in stock trim.

[AbsoluteSpeed]

Ill bust out the grinder and fiberglass come summer. The front fenders are a lost cause but the doors and rear fender I might be able to save.
Once that is done I will put on the new mouldings and 89+ tail lights.

[AbsoluteSpeed]

Small update, the car is.. GONE!!

Yea, I brought it into the shop on saturday.
AMA really supprised me I had called at about 9am and was told there would be no less than a 4 hour wait. Twenty minutes later they were at my door. When I got there they said it was a gift from AMA and I didnt have to pay (even if it was only going to be $10-15).

It should be done before the end of January.



Have a Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays everyone!!
Franco R.

[Dan_Gyoba]

Very cool! Merry Christmas, Franco!

[AbsoluteSpeed]

The install is done but, they cant get it started..
:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

[Dan_Gyoba]

Uh... Sorry to hear that, man. I presume that they know what steps to take to troubleshoot it...

[RandomHero]

Did you check the tire PSI? If you have flat tires obviously the car wont move.
FRANCO I JOINED THIS FORUM JUST TO KEEP UP TO DATE ON THIS THREAD

[AbsoluteSpeed]

Jesse you need a life lol jkjk

Yea Dan, they have been trying for a few days.
It cranks but will not start but, if they jump the ECU I guess it will start and run fine.
They think it might be the alarm system locking out the car likly because of being broken in to or the battery being put in backwards while it sat.

I might go to the shop tomorrow, not that it will help any.

[Dan_Gyoba]

It cranks but will not start but, if they jump the ECU I guess it will start and run fine.
They think it might be the alarm system locking out the car likly because of being broken in to or the battery being put in backwards while it sat.

I might go to the shop tomorrow, not that it will help any.
They did WHAT with the battery? Is that a "It might have happened" or did it happen? If they did, then that's going to do all kinds of bad things to "always on" systems like alarms. Putting potentially high current in reverse across small transistors doesn't do them any good.

If they didn't turn on the engine at that time, though, it shouldn't have affected the ECU. If they turned the ignition on, then all bets are off.

Do they know if the fuel pump is running? Is there fuel pressure? Are the ignition coils firing at all?

Alarm systems generally prevent the starter from kicking in, not prevent the engine from running.

[AbsoluteSpeed]

They did WHAT with the battery? Is that a "It might have happened" or did it happen? If they did, then that's going to do all kinds of bad things to "always on" systems like alarms. Putting potentially high current in reverse across small transistors doesn't do them any good.
It happened and it was before the car went into the shop not by me but yea.
It was not started just installed backwards then corrected.

fuel pump/ignition coils everything seems ok because once they jump the ECU it fires and runs fine.

[Dan_Gyoba]

"Jump the ECU" -- what does that mean? Replace the ECU with a known working one or bywass the wiring harness somewhere?

[Supra_devil]

if the battery terminals were hooked up backwards even for a couple seconds its possible that a fusible link, fuse or relay was fried and jumping something bypasses them.

[Dan_Gyoba]

That's what I mean... If bypassing somethign gets the car running, then it should be easy enough to identify what's fried. He says that it starts and runs fine, so what that seems to sound like to me is that the ECU wasn't getting power somehow.

I don't think that it's an alarm system doing it though, I don't know of any install shop that would interrupt ECU power, and there's no way that the factory system (If its a US model car, which I didn't think that it is) would do that. In fact, I believe that systems that prevent an already running engine to stop running is prohibited, since there's the possibility of nasty liability issues... Losing power steering suddenly, or leaving a car stranded on a railroad track would be bad.

[AbsoluteSpeed]

Ok problem fixed.

It came down to blown fuses and and two shorted wires..
The short was the hard part, it was in a part of the harness that would not have been moved during the install. They didnt want to cause further damage to the wiring harness so I guess they took their time.

Now I am just waiting for a oil pressure sending unit, Mayfield Toyota seems to be taking their time, and I will have a car again.

Side note: I now see what Dan was talking about a while ago, I had asked if there would be any down side to using forged internals in winter. He had said that the pistons would shrink when cold and thus rattle around a little untill it warms up. And, of course, he was right.
Even in a heated shop when started cold I noticed a slight rattle.

[Funkycheeze]

That's going to depend on your piston to bore clearance - mine were all around 0.0015", so there is very little rattle, but i had to take it EXTREMELY slow on the break-in

as an aside - for break in i did

1000k - non synthetic oil, 5W30, under 50% throttle, under 3000 RPM, no boost (wastegate actuator disconnected) I used a special filter that filters down to a very small size.

next 3000k - changed the oil, still 5W30 nonsynthetic, under 75% throttle, under 4500 RPM, low boost (under 3 psi) standard NAPA gold filters at this point, and from now on.

next 3000k - changed the oil to 15W50 full synthetic, up to full throttle but no 'romping' on it, full boost

then I changed the oil again at 7000 (full synthetic) and went nuts. I change my oil now about every 3300 km, along with the filter. I also use copper plugs and change them every 10000

[AbsoluteSpeed]

The thread I read said to use any crappy 30w oil for the first 1000-1500miles and a few 3/4 thottle runs up to 4000rpm and stay in gear while slowing down.

I'm a believer in the "Hard & Fast" break-in method. You want to make several hard runs to ~4000 rpm...you want to get to that rpm as quickly as possible then let the car coast back down to 10 mph or so (at idle, in gear) to create a good vacuum on the engine. Then do the same thing again...3-4 times should be enough. Take the car home and change the oil/filter before running it again using the same 30W...a Super Tech filter is fine for this too. Run to the 100-200 mile point or so and change the oil again...use the same 30W or a 10W-30 dino oil and a PureOne or Wix filter. Run to the 1500 mile point and switch to a good syn oil...stick with the Wix or PureOne filters from then on.
It was found here (http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48993)

[AbsoluteSpeed]

I believe he said it was .0040" clearance but I could be wrong

[Funkycheeze]

Would probably work for you, with the larger clearances. My forgies use the toyota rings so the clearances were alot tighter. When i first started my engine i let it idle for a good 5 minutes, then did some revs up to 4000 like that

also, i tried to drive it at a range of loads and RPMs (within the limits)

[Jeff Lange]

That's on the high side, but it will depend on what the piston manufacturer specifies.

Stock piston clearance is 0.0031 - 0.0039in., so you're on the high side, but some forged pistons use a bit more than stock. Max Toyota recommends (again with OE pistons) is 0.0051in., so you are below that.

Dan is right though, even though these clearances are correct at room temperature, sometimes piston composition will allow for more expansion/contraction at other temperatures.

Toyota went quite a bit tighter on the 2JZ spec, around 0.0023in. if I recall correctly. My brother's 2JZ was done to 0.0020in. as per Tomei's specs.

Jeff

[Funkycheeze]

Ah - those are the diameter clearances - mine were measured radially, so 0.0015 each side = 0.003 total, basically the toyota spec

[Jeff Lange]

Right... that makes sense. Thought it sounded low.

Cool beans then. Haha.

Jeff

[JimR]

The length of the piston skirts also affects piston slap. The JE's with their super short skirt will generally slap more than say a Wiseco, with a longer skirt. My pistons have an 0.004 inch clearance total, and I've never heard them slap.

Offset pin holes and side coatings probably help too.

[Funkycheeze]

Yeah, the ones i got use toyota rings and have the offset pin holes - no slap. but then, i only drive the car when it is above 10C out.

[AbsoluteSpeed]

It is 0.0045" clearance witch is on the tight side of JE's tolerance

It is the most surreal feeling driving a Supra again!
I was shaking head to toe with excitement (and it was cold) it felt as though I shouldnt be driving it but I was. lol

Anyway, noticed a few things:
-If I push in the clutch around 3000rpm and let the rpms drop it stalls. Where it should settle a little under 1k it continues falling with out much change. Boost leak?
-I can hear the turbo spool.. I never have before. Its been a year since I have drivin it but Im sure it's different.
Could be from the new cone air filter I guess
-The alignment seems off, the mechanic mentioned I should get it checked and driving it I didnt notice untill 70kph.

[muzy]

All looks good Franco, you still running? Get that stall prob. fixed? :) muzy

[RandomHero]

Get your fackin car running runco.UH HUH. how will we get to rock & ride this friday without it

[AbsoluteSpeed]

It is running... its in front of my house right now...

I wasnt going to update this untill I got it running 100%

Last week I changed out the MAF as it was causing the ruff idle. But then it would not start.. I put the old one back on and still nothing.
I brought it to the shop (had it towed because it would not start) and asked them to look at it.

I get a call the next day saying 'So, what was wrong with your car again?' I told them that it would turn over but not start. Then they say when they tried it this morning it sarted just fine but they would have a look and what not.

Pin tested half the wiring harness twice and checked for broken wires, nothing.
So I picked up the car today nothing gained, nothing lost.

I used to think the name 'kim' suited my car, but now im thinking it should be 'christine' as she seems to have a mind of her own :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

[annoyingrob]

Just use the standard MKIII name, you know, the one everyone calls their Supras

"Stupid POS, what the hell is wrong with you today!"

[AbsoluteSpeed]

Lol no kidding, like today I could say
"Stupid POS, why are you using a tank of gas every 200km"

No seriously, what could cause that?
It had better not need injectors

[JimR]

I've got a hunch on this one... do you happen to have a heavy lead weight stuck to your right foot? ;)

Do you have a wideband? If so, what are your AFR's doing? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If so, what's it set at? Do you have none of the above? If so, what's VF telling you at the check connector? (With the engine running, of course)

Any codes?

[AbsoluteSpeed]

The last code I had was for the MAF
Sorry, no wideband

The car was in the shop for its 750km oil change and check up so I mentioned it to the mechanic.
They didnt find any leaks.
The fuel pump is putting out 37-39psi, they said that was well within spec
And the injectors didnt seem to leak as the pressure did not drop

As for the heavy foot, not overly.
Havent really gone over half throtle, any more and it sputters and kicks.
Even still 750km and I have had to fill up 3-4times, I would have thought WOT wouldnt even be THAT bad.

[annoyingrob]

It's obviously running really rich. Is your o2 sensor good? Is your afm messed up in any way? Is your tps properly set? Boost leaks?

[JimR]

Will the engine rev over 3000rpm, or does it sputter and kick at that point?

[AbsoluteSpeed]

The kicking starts as I come out of negative boost, right around 3000+ rpm
So, boost leak?

[JimR]

That is, without a doubt, your AFM. You are running in Fail Safe, or 'Limp Home Mode'. Check your codes to confirm.

Source: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71204

FYI, a boost leak makes you run leaner when cruising or idling, and richer under boost. Any air escaping or getting in after the airflow meter is un-metered. If the ECU doesn't know about it, it won't adjust the amount of fuel going in. Think about what happens in those cases.

[AbsoluteSpeed]

It is not limited to 3000rpm that is just where the kicking starts..

[JimR]

It's approximate. I just put an FYI in my previous post.

[JimR]

On second thoughts... it could be a boost leak too. But it would have to be a big one. My hunch is still on the AFM though.

[azrael]

Ooh, pick me! Pick me! I totally have a pile of 7M-GTE AFMs.

[Funkycheeze]

Now that I have my standalone, I'll be taking the one out of my car in the next month or so - and I know for sure that it works properly.

Let me know.

[AbsoluteSpeed]

If I made a trip down to cow town :mrgreen: would anyone feel like getting together to fix this dam thing.
It would be awesome to meet some of you and I would be forever grateful!

Just curious, what standalone did you go with had about how much did it cost?

[Funkycheeze]

1300 USD on special from horsepower freaks. That doesnt include the sensors for speed density (removing AFM) and boost control solenoid.

[AbsoluteSpeed]

I noticed something while driving today, like a fluttering noise when it started kicking.
reminded me of-> this (http://videos.streetfire.net/video/True-Turbo-Compressor_163406.htm)
the resulting kick is more violent than shown in this video

What would cause compressor surge like this?
Is it possible with stock turbo/psi?

[annoyingrob]

Sounds like my car at part throttle.......

It's possible with a stock turbo, but difficult to accomplish. If you had a big restriction within your intake piping, maybe.

[AbsoluteSpeed]

funny, at WOT its fine..

[AbsoluteSpeed]

20th Birthday UPDATE!!.. well it was yesterday

89+ mouldings and tail lights are on and it is running a hundred times better.
three cylinder supras are no fun..

and some pics:
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/P1010145.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff14/f-runco/P1010148-1.jpg

[Dan_Gyoba]

Y'know, I've never liked white cars in particular, but I'm starting to change my opinion of white Supras. The Mk3 actually looks pretty good in white, with a nice set of rims...

[AbsoluteSpeed]

I find the white moldings help a lot and the 89lights are WAY better.

[RandomHero]

sell me

[supraseven]

ahhhh i just notice cancer , quick kill it. other than that man i love your car big time

[AbsoluteSpeed]

ahhhh i just notice cancer , quick kill it. other than that man i love your car big time
Thanks, and I know rust is no fun the drivers fender as a fairly substantial hole in it.

I also got some wheel spacers so the fitment isn't as bad.
Its still not great but I didnt want to go to far and have nothing for the lug nuts to hold on to.

[chupa26]

which shop did you use to put the engine together?

[AbsoluteSpeed]

I used the BolckShop on 118ave and 148th st.
If you are getting a motor built at a shop I recomend going to them with a block and a goal (like drivability and power) but not much more.
If you want to get the major stuff on your own like pistons, rods and headgasket do so but only after they tell you what size you need.

[AbsoluteSpeed]

It's for sale and priced to go!
Take a look=> Here (http://supraclub.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=3579)