Electrical issues...

[Dan_Gyoba]

Okay, my ABS isn't working. Checked for codes, and got an 11 and a 33.

According to TSRM:

11: Open Circuit in solenoid relay:
- Actuator inside waire harness
- Solenoid Relay
- Wire harness and connector of solenoid relay circuit

(The last has my bet, something between the '87T engine harness and the '89NA chassis harness isn't happy.)

33: Rear wheel speed sensor signal malfunction:
- Speed Sensor
- Sensor rotor
- Wire harness and connector of speed sensor

Now I'm 99.9% sure that the speed sensor on the transmission was connected to the engine harness. Might this be an engine/chassis harness incompatability?

Next issue:

Any time my battery is connected, the headlights want to come on.

I'm quite sure that this has to do with the wire that goes to the "LP" pin on the ECU. Whether this is a matter of the year difference, or the difference between NA and Turbo, I don't know, but I'm quite sure that this is the problem.

Next:

My tach is totally messed up. I think I will resolve this by disconnecting the wire that comes from the wiring harness, and using instead the wire that I'm using for my alarm/starter system which connects to the check connector. This should mean that it'll be a consistent signal at least.

Once the tach issues are cleared up, then I will have a basis for hunting down other issues that seem to be giving me grief.

[Dan_Gyoba]

Okay. ABS problem solved, it did seem to be a wiring harness thing.

So... Somewhere I seem to have a short to ground that's causing the headlights issue.

The tach doesn't work right. This is really confusing, since it's the tach unit from the '87T

At idle it reads very low, but I have reason to believe that it reads very high (Shifting by ear, the tach reads 7,500+ RPM) at high RPM. This just doesn't seem right... It's the tach from the '87T's instrument cluster. I'm going to try my NA tach, just to see if it looks reasonable.

This one's n ot electrical, but I want opinions. The speedo is wrong.

I would swap in the '87T speedo, but I'd have to take the gauge face, too, since it's a different range than the '89 speedo, and well... I like a consistent look to the instrument panel. Besides, I'm rather proud of my odometer. :)

What I was thinking of doing is taking the worm gear drive from the '87T speedo, and affixing that to the '89's speedo. The result should be that the speedo's drive for the odometer would then be correct, and I'm hoping that in turn, the drive for the speedometer itself would be correct, or at least be correctable. Thoughts?

That's it for issues that I'm aware of. I haven't tried all of the options, the climate control seems to work, and I don't expect issues with the stereo -- much of that's connection to factory wiring has long since been severed, and it wouldn't hurt me to re-wire the one or two wires left that may be factory.

The engine still sounds a bit rough, but that's probably at least in part due to the mickey mouse exhaust system that I cobbled together out of the parts of the two that I had. Might have been better if I'd had all the gaskets...

[Dan_Gyoba]

Well, I figured out where the #2 integration relay is. It's labelled as the "Light Retractor Relay" in the TSRM Now I've just got to find its output for the headlight switch, and make sure that it's behaving properly.

I sure hope I didn't need this from the parts car, since it's gone now.

[bashir]

Try Readjusting The Headlights Manually, I Had To Do That With Mine After The Repairs, I Turned The Knob On The Side Of The Light All The Way One Way And Turned On The Switch And Then Adjusted Them Manually Andd Now Evertime I Turn On My Headlights They Pop Up To Where I Set Them, And That Is After The Wiring Harness Repair Was Done

[Dan_Gyoba]

the headlights popping up wasn't the problem, that was working fine. It was that on the wiring harness, there was a ground somewhere, and it was causing the lights to turn on when they shouldn't have been, ie: all the time.

I've now bypassed the factory wiring harness, and run a wire from pin #10 on the Integration relay #2 and the headlight relay, and the headlights work properly now. There's still a ground somewhere that there should not be, on that red/yellow line, but for now, my headlight switch does what it should.

I also got the tach working.

Ine difference between the '87 and '89 tachs: The cruise control lamp shares power with the tach instrument itself. I also noticed that the instrument itself reads differently with a specified voltage applied. I think that there must be different voltage regulation on the chassis harness. It seems that the '87 instrument was different, in that it was more sensitive, so that it had a lower max voltage, and yet it also needed more initial voltge to get started. This makes it a less sensitive instrument overall.

So, I took the '87T driver board, and mated it to the '89NA instrument, tying in the cruise control lamp. Fire up the engine, and it's idling at 900 RPM. That looks much better than the barely above zero that it was reading. Now I still haven't looked at the high RPM scale, so it might still be screwed up, but I think that it's looking promising.

So, that's 2 issues down.

I think that my oil pressure sender (Gods, I HOPE it's the pressure sender) is also toast, that zero oil pressure is putting a serious damper on my tendancy to put the boots to the throttle. :P